STAGE 16

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Now you may want to finish the gyprocking, as much as possible  (providing that all your plumbing and electrics are bulk complete....but not the fittings yet.....of course)...........so now is the time to do the 'setting' of the rendered block walls .......down below is a great video for you to be able to learn how to 'white set' the walls....you will easily get the hang of it....practice on the garage walls first.....you can lightly sand it after, if you leave lines....and if the paint dosen't cover any mistake.... then your free standing lamp will..ha!..........the internal corners, you will need to use your corner trowel

Once you have finished the setting...wait several days, and then put all your cornices on on the set walls, and also the cornice on your gypbrock walls upstairs as well if you like (see stage 14 again, on applying cornices)

and remember that if your uncertain about how to do something...find a vid on youtube, and learn from that....there are literally hundreds of vids there to teach you how to do it.. 

I have put the gyprock taping ,setting and butt joint video on here, for you again...so you can complete most walls ready for sanding

Make sure you put plastic down, (for mess) and make sure floor is cleaned up each day, because it can go very hard, and can be difficult to get off

'set' rendered walls .......before cornice

FLOORING

Once the setting, gyprocking, and cornices have been done.....you are now ready for the timber floor (you ......of course,... can do the floor first, before the gyprocking and setting....and even the rendering if you like... and often, that is a better and easier way, but you will need to spray water on the block walls first, before you 'set'..... and you will make a huge mess as well, as you progress...up to you......you see in the video below, walls were done first.......however...some we did first......some after

Flooring......We used recycled Black Butt flooring....in the video below he would nail, then use a filler, then would wipe it off....we tended to not use the filler sparingly...as it tends to shrink as it dries, but also will leave a stain if spead to wide......remember that the floor sanders will remove excess, but you dont want deep stains 

 

Try and do the tongue and groove flooring with hidden nails (as above)..... because exposed nails will need to be punched (with what is called 'a punch')... and the recessed nail holes will need to be filled with the right coloured 'putty', and this is very tedious if you have hundreds of holes (even though i chose to do it that way).....however, the plus in doing it that way, is that there should be no floor movement, whereas hidden nailing may produce movement in your floor.....squeeky floor .....i didnt choose secret nailing becuase it was recycled flooring also.... (anyway....ask your builder)

As you lay your fooring...make sure you put a silicon adhesive on, as you lay (for adhesion) on any steel beam....... and make sure under-floor light fittings are kept clear .....and also glue or tack down a rubber noise barrier on the joists.....(although your builder may recommend a different barrier........ask him)

You will use your bench saw for accurate floor cutting.......and or, the mitre box for 45 degree skirting cuts

Make sure you sand....with a sander.....around the edges of your rooms before you put on your skirting....much easier for the floor sanders....and much cheaper for you..............and remember to use your floor clamps in unison for tight flooring

I chose non-secret nailing....as you see here

staircase