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Closing the house in at this stage.....if windows are to be glazed, do it now, however, as i mentioned before it pays to install fully glazed windows ( already in their aluminium frames) when you are doing the blockwork...(mentioned in Stage 7).....if that is so....then you'll only need to install several doors (also see door installation vid well below) 

You should already have the steel and timber frames in for the doors you need install.......and they should be simple to put in (doors) ....just securing hinges once again, and the handle and lock hardware (which should be provided with installation instructions)

hang the 3 french timber doors (for the bedrooms...see picture stage 19) .....if you,ve installed the frames right of course....and also hang the timber front door.... (front door.....entry way door)


RSJ's..... Consertina doors ( see also stage 19)

The main consertina doors of the lounges, will take a little bit of working out, as you'll have to lay top and bottom tracks 

Because both the top and bottom lounge consertina door RSJ beams are exposed both sides (which you should have already painted black and top inside white ........ as they are obviously seen) ......however, you will need some short welded bolts on the lower part of the beams.( which i didn't do before i put them up)..and a timber plate bolted on underneath... to carry the upper track for both your consertina doors (both floors)....the lower bottom floor track will be secured into the concrete (ramset or dynabolts)......the upper bottom floor track  ....perhaps screwed and glued on to your floor joists or RSJ.....(see photos Stage 19....also mid Stage 17)

Regarding the concertina doors......if youve built the (top to bottom) door space..standard size ....then you may order standard doors....otherwise, fit your timber, ready for the top and bottom tracks, and get the cabinetmakers (door manufacturers) to measure up on site....and he will build the consertina  doors to suit

 the short consertina door,( to the outdoor dining from the kitchen.....see picture Stage 19) will be done the same as the big lounge consertina doors....except the doors swing opposite ways

The garage doors (single and double garage in Stage19) will need to be measured up and delivered and manouvered into place....manouvered up a temporary scaffold or use the block and tackles ....and secured onto the blockwork, (dynabolts) including the track.....if the photos dont show you enough installation detail....ask your garage door suppliers......if you havent rendered will need to do the rendering and setting around the doors prior to installing....(like i foolishly didn't do) ..manually close the doors after they are installed .....(even though you have installed the motor....disengage the motor)

The sunroom consertina windows will be measured up and will be made to suit as well, (pictured in Stage 19) unless they are also of a standard size....woodworking finishing, such as this, is something you will learn as you go and your skill level will increase....dont be scared to pull it apart and start again if your not happy with the finish....this is cabinet making expertise

All gyprocking can be completed, all upstairs timber flooring, concrete staircase timber treads,( just copy the photographs, glue them down and cover temporarily with in the photos)  cornices and skirting completed (skirting installation found a little further on)....just check photos if your unsure of anything, or talk to your builder....just remember to mark all plumbing clearly on the gibrock walls when installing gibrock

Finish all outdoor horizontal timber cladding (see pictures below) with vertical battens and sisalation paper  .....make sure the weatherboards (cladding) are stained or varnished ( i used Sikkens timber finish stain) before they are put will need to trim the ends of the timber horizontal cladding with a 45o cut for the corners (see video below)

I will mention here again, as i mentioned before, that i started a Company called 'The Good Life Group Pty Ltd' and purchased everything through that building company....i also had cards made up, refering to the fact that i was involved in all areas of the

: House renovations

: Bathroom renovations

: Kitchen renovations 

and so on.....that way i would get any discounts that were avaliable for any trade ....and they were legitimate claims, after the construction of the motels (if you building the motels back in 1968)......afterwards i did 56 bathroom restorations in a row, doing everthing myself....including plumbing and electrics plumbing and electrician friends were happy to pop around check and sign off the plumbing and electrics for $100 for 2 mins work..believe me..(todays prices) 

and i always did renovations ....or staggered renovations under $10,000 (at that time) to comply with the law....over 10,000 required a registered builder. If your intentions (in the future) is to do such renovations, (under 10,000 at that i said)  then you can legimately start a Company for that purpose.....just dont give any indication in the wording, that you are registered.........however if you do  want to do a larger job (like i did occasionaly)...then you will need to hire the paperwork of a registered builder and build it under his umbrella.......or......get your builders licence yourself....thats an option (some builders i have worked with have never even picked up a hammer...true!) 

Now lets continue on

Now you may stagger your outdoor rendering (like i did)...took me 6mths to complete it ...did bits here and there.....and the funny thing is that (as i mentioned before)....people say why haven't you finished this, and why are you now doing this when that is not finished

and the answer is ...that you are not doing that particular skill every day you are unfit...and sometimes can take several days to recover from 1 full day on that trade....know what i mean ...sore muscles

Now to close the building in.......on the timber cladded timber framing (and the blockwork..which you will ramset vertical battens....see picture below) you will have vertical battens at 600 centres ....cover with sisalation (reduces summer heat gain and winter heat loss and controls moisture) and do your horizontal timber cladding from the bottom up ...(see video also below)

Vertical battens ramset onto blockwork.....sisalation over

sisalation over framing and (battens)

sisalation over battens

Timber panelling.....working our way up garage roof line..... off the scaffold

video.......get the right sealer (paint or stain)

Timber cladding has beveled corners....stain cladding first before installing

I will mention here before the videos....i used fine galv nails and a hammer on the cedar may want to use a nail he does (in the video)....thats ok (if you can afford one....but i prefer not i mentioned before)...also it is prefered to do the outside rendering first, but winter was coming so we decided to seal and close the place up before the winds

Also i used my simple plastic mitre box and a fine blade handsaw to do my 45o may want to use your saw bench like he does in the video).....remember when laying .. to keep the cedar cladding level

In the second vid further down regarding doors, the rubber strip sealer will not go across the bottom floor gap, as he has done in the door installation

vid on mitre cutting

before installing horizontal cedar....render first

should've rendered first........easier

easier too render first before installing cedar

upstairs main bedroom spa area

upstairs main bedroom spa area

upstairs main bedroom spa area


garage and laundry doors...steel frames

front door timber frame.....timber frame set back one block width