My suggestion here, is that you print out all the diagrams, so that your not confused (you then, can compare diagrams more easily) 

Scroll to the bottom of page first, and let the page load, (takes 4 or 5 seconds) then come to the top again


Prior to stage 2 you will need to order the steel you will need for the footings (and floor) will also notice that the Terrace is full size again in the picture below than it was, as an amendment, presented to council earlier.... (Thank you...local council !! )

Find out  what your local engineers require (the configuration of the steel required in your footings) 

You or your supplier will measure the area you see below (remember to use the 1 to 100 detail plans to work out volume) including Terrace ( all the way around the project).....and find the volume of steel needed for the footing and floor.......or.....just show the reo company the plans,...they will work out the quantity for you ( and so it is with most materials on the job....they will work the quantities out for you, if they want your business)

However, the process below.... that im'e explaining,....... is the footing i had to do for my particular property.... (yours will be different) in terms of flat or sloping.....soft or hard ground.......but of course, same measurements...


The house plan below is 15.8m long by 14.8m wide, and is the same configuration that you see will need aprox steel from your supplier (he should be familiar with what you need)... to cover that red dotted-and small slanted lined area (disregard anything else at this floor mesh).....those dots also represent vertical rods that bend into flooring.......but dont get too stressed, because things will become clearer to you further on, of what steel you will need, and so on.......just read fact read 2 or 3 Stages ahead first, before you do anything, stay at least 3 Stages ahead of yourself at all that way you'll understand what im'e talking about.......(i suggest you work out the volume you willl need, as well as the supplier, to familiar yourself with volumes you will need on the project........its a good learning curve for you)

Your only looking for the VOLUME of steel you will want at this stage.......THATS ALL ........all will become clearer later.....and dont sweat if you dont get the volumes......if your short....not a can always get more as you need it...or alternatively...........if you have to much'll use them dont worry 

I'll mention again, that you should be able to do everything yourself, including electrical, plumbing , rendering, blockwork, roofing, carpentry, and so on.....all the instructions (and videos) are here.....even including landscaping, artificial rocks and swimming pool 'have a go'


Just a note of caution here,...i will have given you many measurements on this website in regards to this particular project, however it would probably pay to double check, and also you may have to use your anitiative on occasions and alter things to suit your understanding of your current situation.....remember, i built this 25 yrs ago, and memories fail you as you get older, but dont worry, everything is solvable.....i found that out when i built it....but regulations may have changed

We are now ready to begin the project, and obviously, the first thing,.......

you need to have a reasonable idea where the house is going to be, so that you can clear away the ground vegetation

As you can see on the plans, this house, is set back 10m from the rear boundary, and 1.8m from the side boundary (south boundary..........right side),........on the plans.....ill say again (that you see...... on the plans of THIS house)

and the house is  aprox 16m long (from front to back), and aprox 15m wide

Make all of these measurements, slightly exaggerated to allow for the positioning of the house, and simply,.to give yourself room to clear the vegetation, (like...for example..the 16m and 17m and 1m you see on the photo....below....which are exadurated measurements)

Then clear away vegetation

It took us a couple of days by hand to clear the vegetation........which is great, because at this stage, you need to get your'e head around the project.....and taking it slow is the best way to do it..... it helps you think much clearer..... remember, you have up to 5 years


Order the blocks (for the foundations) that you will need and have them delivered to the position you see on the photo ( below), if you need any that is. (you will realise whether you need any or not,.... and how many, as you read on).....remember,.....that the block company will be more than happy to work out the volume and type of blocks you will need, if you supply them the plans and photos......(but have a go yourself as may need to get more if short ....if too will use dont worry) may not need to use any blocks in the footings at all....if your property is flat,... but lets assume you are building this particular house, thats on this website

After you have cleared off the vegetation, you will need to set up your profiles (the bits of timber...pegs......that you see behind the yellow 17m line in the photo above).... but before you do, you need to positon the house more accurately with your starter peg BB (see photo below......purple arrow)...

Measure out from the south fence (where the 1m yellow line is.......above) and put in a peg where you consider the house will be positioned best (peg BB),.....(i positoned mine at 1.8m out from the fence)......of course yours may be totally different, but lets assume your building my house

Put a peg in the ground (see purple arrow pointing at peg BB below....bang that peg in the ground, where the corner of the house is going to be.......pretty  accurately)

This will be the starting point of your house project .....i put my peg in at exactly 1.8m from the south boundary and 10m from the east (rear) boundary......this peg is the starting point for my house

you will find out from the council, how close you can build to the boundary....i would'nt recommend going any closer than 1.8m


Now go  west 15.8m from the BB peg to the DD peg ...(green arrow below) make sure this is parellell to the fence.....if this is where the permanent position of the house will be,.The pegs BB and DD permanently determine the position of your house....this line from BB to DD will not be moved again (except the height). This will become your datum line.The whole building will be built from this line

(now put in a peg at DD)..........north/south or east/south whatever......just using my house as an example...yours may well be facing a  different direction

Now to square the building....

lay your builders square on the ground roughly in line with BB to get the proposed building roughly square (blue builders square...below) 

You will then need to measure north...14.8m from the BB peg to the AA peg ....(red arrow) 

(now put in the AA peg....this will be moved later )..

Do the same on the other side ...14.8m from the DD peg to the CC peg ....and then 15.8m from the AA peg to the CC peg .......

(then put in the CC peg) .....these probably needed to be moved again (except pegs BB and DD...which are your Datum pegs...never to be moved)

You will now need to work out the height of your finished  concrete floor....

Because of the contour of my land.....the north western corner (peg CC) was to be my lowest point of the house......100mm above ground level, so all the profiles ( batter boards, they are called here) had to be level with that 100mm above ground point (CC corner)....this will be the finished datum height of my floor (the finished concrete floor will be at this height)....just remember this as you progress with the profiles

The highest point would be the south east bottom boundary of the house which will be aprox 1m above gound level (down at the rear of the block)


So we are about to make the house square, and the concrete pad level

But before you go any further .......take a good look at these videos (below) first.....they may help you, or at least, increase your knowledge base