its about this stage that we can add little bits and pieces (of concrete that is) and continue with shaping, like you see as i have done below....darker parts are add ons....i have created a valley for the slow waterfall (a faint crack down to the yellow stain) .........and a ledge higher up (near top)...so that the heavier waterfall....will fall..rather than running down the face like the other one.........its not neccessary to build the artifical rocks in one pour......only the pool
notice that the top is flat and relatively wide, with a downhill slight slope, to the slow waterfall...
most all your pipes are to long and will need to be cut,.... but thats ok, but make sure you tape the ends of them
photo below..........firstly, you will see where it says 'retic pipe'....that is the reticulation pipe running out the back of the alcove (wall) and hanging over the face
the 'plants' is just another reticulated plant holder (alcove)...you can put them anywhere....make sure you have drainage holes out the back
where it says 'free standing rock'.....yes, this looks like these are freestanding, but in reality fastened to the main wall , but fastening is hidden.........on the top rock, try and hinge the rock, on the steel fence side so that you can lift it a foot or so, on the trickle waterfall end, to make any adjustments you need to....like inserting an aluminium restricting plate (see 3 below)......use galvanised gate hinges if possible...mortar hinges in, so they are well hidden.......render in hinges into the bottom first....when dry, mortar the top free-standing rock in (hinges)
where it says 'built up at a later date'....it means that i decided it needs more building up in this area, so in built it up with render.......you can also use concrete,..... but render is easier....render is the same as the mortar you used on the house
The swim jets, of course, positioning is clearly shown
The top 'free standing rock' is explained below.......my waterfall configuration was slightly different as to what is shown, but follow the diagrams, or concoct your own version
free standing top rock....waterfall so-called tray underneath...to make rock hollow, fill with black plastic
the basic way i built my waterfall.....you may have different options
where it says 'motor' twice...2 off-on switches'.(above)......it means that the off- on switches are 2 way switches.....one set of switches on the pillar outside the upstairs dining....so you can turn both pumps on-off, from the upstairs balcony.......and another on-off switch on the pillar near the downstairs communal spa......so that you can turn off-on both waterfalls from downstairs......there is also an air safety switch as well ....you just push the air switch and it will turn off everything (see photo below).....
i used several motors in this project...about $150 each, but well worth it.....make the back wall area slightly higher than the front waterfall area. (waterfall tray area)....so if there is a problem with overfilling , water will be expell down the waterfall face, rather than water running down the back
where it says...'made with mortar' (above)....it means that even though ive made it neat and square looking, in reality it just looks similar to the rocks....i made all straight lines for your benifite, so that you could understand it better......it may end up looking rocky, but the principal must remain consistent with the drawing....but ends up looking like the photos (rocky)
where it says 'big artificial rock to go on top of this' (above)......means that the top 'free standing rock' will go on top and hide everything ie.pipes etc...the top freestanding rock should be made light enough for 2 men to easily manhandle......as it is basically hollow....filled with black plastic, like i said...but shaped with galv mesh,.then chicken wire, black plastic filled.....to complete rock look, read further on.....only needs so be rough at this stage, and if you see cracks in the mortar rocks anywhere, just leave the cracks, make it authentic
where it says...'closed valve' its refering to the big waterfall flow, that is fully closed (valve) so as not to lesson water flow to the 'big waterfall', however you may want to regulate the water flow depending on your constuction...so it is avaliable to do that and ease the volume of water, by diverting some back to pool, if need be.........you need to fine tune the volume of water to both the waterfalls...thats why the valves are there..........where it says 'restriction valve', its refering to slowing down the water supply by diversion, so that you only have a trickle going thru to the waterfall.... and also you can increase the volume of water to have a waterfall torrent, with both pumps on together if you want
where it says 'slight slope' .....its refering to the flat surface on top, and it should have a slight slope on it so that the water flows freely in the right direction and dosent leave stagnant pools of water, which are an attractant to mozzis......because you will only tend to use the waterfall on special occasions and in the winter vary rarely.....
and all these surfaces will need to be waterproofed (at a later date....which ill tell you)
there are 2 air switches (shown below) ....one is linked up to the main pool power area (to cut off all pool power if need be) ...... and the other air switch for the activation of the swimjets ......the air switches work by air obviously...when you push the button..you push air down a sealed pipe wihich in turn has a switch at the other end, that is activated off-on by air......air switches are used for safety reasons....you obviously can wet them....
where it says 'big waterfall', (above) the cutout in the cement tray wall, for the big waterfall is just a slim cutout (1inch deep, by 6 inches long), whereas the 'trickle waterfall' will go right to the bottom (as shown....'narrow'.....1/2-1 inch wide)......the reason for this is obvious, ....as the water volume increases from the 'un-restricted water flow pump', the tray (if you like) will quickly fill with water and overflow thru the 'big waterfall' cutout....as well the trickle waterfall increasing in volume.....you may want to restrict your 'trickle waterfall' even more (later)......you can do that by cutting a smaller gap in something like a piece of aluminium and putting it in the trickle waterfall gap opening, to restrict the trickle flow even more
The input for your 2 pumps will be in a 40mm pipe, from the pool, or size diameter pipe that is stipulated as your pumps input requirements.......it pays to buy a motor first , before you start the project, to get your piping correct and the motor placement correct, by positioning it temporarily
2nd motor more or less identical
i left cavities under the back of the waterfall walls as well ......basically to hide as many motors as possible as they tend to be noisy, but thankfully because of the positioning we were spared that noise
When you are fitting pipes together......dont rush....because you need a very good seal....use primer ....then glue....there is a good video on how to glue up pipes found on stage 6 (near the beginning of stage 6)......of all the piping that there is in this project ....i never had one air leak problem...so be overgenerous....especially those pipes that are underground
The bubbles in the pool are eye-catching.....both will be operated from the top and bottom pillars again......an air pump, once again, will cost about $150 but looks magical when operational.......completely finish off the pool before trimming the air pipes....(at ground level)
drill 1/4 inch or so, holes in the PVC manfold and snug fit vertical tubes.....the concrete and mortar will hold them secure under the bottom of the pool