its about this stage that we can add little bits and pieces (of concrete that is) and continue with shaping, like you see as i have done below....darker parts are add ons....i have created a valley for the slow waterfall (a faint crack down to the yellow stain) .........and a ledge higher up (near top) that the heavier waterfall....will fall..rather than running down the face like the other one.........its not neccessary to build the artifical rocks in one pour......only the pool

notice that the top is flat and relatively wide, with a downhill slight slope, to the slow waterfall...


most all your pipes are to long and will need to be cut,.... but thats ok, but make sure you tape the ends of them

photo below..........firstly, you will see where it says 'retic pipe'....that is the reticulation pipe running out the back of the alcove (wall) and hanging over the face

the 'plants' is just another reticulated plant holder (alcove) can put them anywhere....make sure you have drainage holes out the back

where it says 'free standing rock'.....yes, this looks like these are freestanding, but in reality fastened to the main wall , but fastening is hidden.........on the top rock, try and hinge the rock, on the steel fence side so that you can lift it a foot or so, on the trickle waterfall end, to make any adjustments you need inserting an aluminium restricting plate (see 3 below)......use galvanised gate hinges if possible...mortar hinges in, so they are well hidden.......render in hinges into the bottom first....when dry, mortar the top free-standing rock in (hinges)

where it says 'built up at a later date' means that i decided it needs more building up in this area, so in built it up with can also use concrete,..... but render is easier....render is the same as the mortar you used on the house

The swim jets, of course, positioning is clearly shown 

The top 'free standing rock' is explained waterfall configuration was slightly different as to what is shown, but follow the diagrams, or concoct  your own version

free standing top rock....waterfall so-called tray make rock hollow, fill with black plastic

the basic way i built my may have different options



where it says 'motor' twice...2 off-on switches'.(above) means that the off- on switches are 2 way set of switches on the pillar outside the upstairs you can turn both pumps on-off, from the upstairs balcony.......and another on-off switch on the pillar near the downstairs communal that you can turn off-on both waterfalls from downstairs......there  is also an air safety switch as well just push the air switch and it will turn off everything (see photo below).....

i used several motors in this project...about $150 each, but well worth it.....make the back wall area slightly higher than the front waterfall area. (waterfall tray area) if there is a problem with overfilling , water will be expell down the waterfall face, rather than water running down the back

where it says...'made with mortar' (above) means that  even though ive made it neat and square looking, in reality it just looks similar to the rocks....i made all straight lines for your benifite, so that you could understand it may end up looking rocky, but the principal must remain consistent with the drawing....but ends up looking like the photos (rocky)

where it says 'big artificial rock to go on top of this' (above)......means that the top 'free standing rock' will go on top and hide everything ie.pipes etc...the top freestanding rock should be made light enough for 2 men to easily it is basically hollow....filled with black plastic, like i said...but shaped with galv mesh,.then chicken wire, black plastic complete rock look, read further on.....only needs so be rough at this stage, and if you see cracks in the  mortar rocks anywhere, just leave the cracks, make it authentic......of course it is hinged on

where it says...'closed valve' its refering to the big waterfall flow, that is fully closed (valve) so as not to lesson water flow to the 'big waterfall', however you may want to regulate the water flow depending on your it is avaliable to do that and ease the volume of water, by diverting some back to pool, if need need to fine tune the volume of water to both the waterfalls...thats why the valves are there..........where it says 'restriction valve', its refering to slowing down the water supply by diversion, so that you only have a trickle going thru to the waterfall.... and also you can increase the volume of water to have a waterfall torrent, with both pumps on together if you want

where it says 'slight slope' .....its refering to the flat surface on top, and it should have a slight slope on it so that the water flows freely in the right direction and dosent  leave stagnant pools of water, which are an attractant to mozzis......because you will only tend to use the waterfall on special occasions and in the winter vary rarely.....

and all these surfaces will need to be waterproofed (at a later date....which ill tell you) 

there are 2 air switches (shown below) is linked up to the main pool power area (to cut off all pool power if need be) ...... and the other air switch for the activation of the swimjets ......the air switches work by air obviously...when you push the push air down a sealed pipe wihich in turn has a switch at the other end, that is activated off-on by air......air switches are used for safety obviously can wet them....

where it says 'big waterfall', (above) the cutout in the cement tray wall, for the big waterfall is just a slim cutout (1inch deep, by 6 inches long), whereas the 'trickle waterfall' will go right to the bottom (as shown....'narrow'.....1/2-1 inch wide)......the reason for this is obvious, the water volume increases from the 'un-restricted water flow pump', the tray (if you like) will quickly fill with water and overflow  thru the 'big waterfall' well the trickle waterfall increasing in may want to restrict your 'trickle waterfall' even more (later) can do that by cutting a smaller gap in something like a piece of aluminium and putting it in the trickle waterfall gap opening, to restrict the trickle flow even more

The input for your 2 pumps will be in a 40mm pipe, from the pool, or size diameter pipe that is stipulated as your pumps input pays to buy a motor first , before you start the project, to get your piping correct and the motor placement  correct, by positioning it temporarily

2nd motor more or less identical

i left cavities under the back of the waterfall walls as well ......basically to hide as many motors as possible as they tend to be noisy, but thankfully because of the positioning we were spared that noise


When you are fitting pipes together......dont rush....because you need a very good seal....use primer ....then glue....there is a good video on how to glue up pipes found on stage 6 (near the beginning of stage 6)......of all the piping that there is in this project ....i never had one air leak be overgenerous....especially those pipes that are underground



The bubbles in the pool are eye-catching.....both will be operated  from the top and bottom pillars air pump, once again, will cost about $150 but looks magical when operational.......completely finish off the pool before trimming the air pipes....(at ground level)

drill 1/4 inch or so, holes in the PVC manfold and snug fit vertical tubes.....the concrete and mortar will hold them secure under the bottom of the pool

pool bubbles

KEEPING WATER LEVEL CONSTANT ....skimmer box frontage only.....purple float will open...... to allow water to flow in blue pipe

gas for pool/spa shown previously

red pipe for garden power

big cracks.....small cracks bits, smooth bits, etc

CoNCRETE nearly complete

partially rendered and completed

concrete between timber deck bearers reminder