STAGE 4

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 Now .......assuming we're continuing to build my particular house.....lets continue

 

Your footing has been dug out to match the configuration in Stage 3 ( EAST/WEST....NORTH/SOUTH MEASUREMENTS.... plans and measurements)........your steel cage has been placed in the trench (there will be a trench around the whole exterior of the house with a steal cage suspended aprox 100mm above the dirt floor and aprox 50mm lower than the top of the trench peg)  with several step ups from the bottom of the property to the shallow north/west corner of the property and suspended above the trench, (so no hanging steel is touching any dirt) and you have your timber step-ups in place............and you are now ready to pour your concrete (footings)

Of course, the first thing you must do,.....is inform the engineer, and your builder, before you go any further.........inform them at least 24 hrs ahead, .....they will then be satisfied, or tell you if changes need to be made (as i mentioned earlier)

This is a great service from them, and be thankfull that you have some professionals that can save you a lot of stress further down the track.....make sure you take photos of everything...good or bad....bad, because you can show them the changes you may have had to make

Once again.......Tell and show the concrete company what you intend to do, .....they will need ...length of footing, width, and depth and they will work the volume of concrete out that you will need.......your engineer will tell you the strength of your concrete

 

By this stage, its advisable to  make yourself a little metal road on to your property (as shown below),.......because you will have many vehicles on site, and if one gets stuck, due to inadequate roading, and they spend a half a day trying to get out, and it appears that you have not made an attempt to  provide some sort of good roading.....they may charge you (like they did to me several years earlier), or end up having a dispute with them....you dont want that !

 

Pick a dry day if you can, our footing had no drainage so the trench would just fill with water, and thats not advisable 

....do a double check of the footings, and then order the concrete truck 

We poured all our concrete by hand .....just the 2 of us......we barrowed to the extreme parts of the property, that the truck could't get to,........ but the overall time period was not serious, as a concrete truck can wait on a job up to 2 hours before the concrete looses its strength ....it took us about an hour to pour 

If you are using barrows like we did, and the trenches are quite deep,........cover the area where you are pouring with a large canvas sheet and drag it along with you as you pour (let it hang a little into the trench)......this way you will not get dirt from your trench walls falling into the wet concrete and also if you have large piece of flat timber to upend your barrow on, you will not collapse the trench  wall 

As i said earlier....The engineer will tell you the quality and strength your concrete will need to be.....ours was 20mpa with 80slump....you dont need to know what these things mean......just follow your instructions 

 

Often people will, use a vibrator,...... but as it was not a local stipulation, (it may well be these days, as wev'e become so rule crazy) but anyway, we saved ourselves $60 or $80 by doing a little vibrating by hand......you will find that you are pulsating the concrete anyway, as you use a rake to find your level pegs (photo on right) and spread the concrete so that the top of your little timber level pegs are visable .......all around the footing these peg tops will only just need to be visable (just the tops) .....see photo below

do not overpour....you will lose site of your pegs 

 

Often people will use a concrete pump, but as you are in no hurry, save yourself the expense......your probably saving yourself another $150 by wheel barrowing it.....remember to keep those verticals 600mm apart

The finished surface is not that critIcal, as long a its level with the height pegs......obviously a very smooth surface is counter-preductive to good mortar adhesion when you lay your first row of blocks, but not critical

In this picture is shown another way to tie your verticals in place (purple arrow)

 

The next day should see you ready to do some blockwork....

Put up the string lines where you intend laying your first blocks .......i would suggest some obscure area of the building to start........ (thats not so noticable)......a good place to practice

But before you do, see the video below and Stu will show you some tips and  how to mix mortar properly........

He also mentioned stronger plasticiser, which i would recomend, as you only have to use a capfull (into the water at the beginning of the mix........one capfull).......... and dont just keep adding water, because it looks to dry, just let it mix a minute or 2 first, but on the other hand if there is shortage of water, you will find your mortar will turn into little round balls....and you dont want that....

Doing the foundation blocks below ground level is the best place to start........no one can see it...ha !......however, its not that critical, because the whole house is to be rendered

Watch vids .........man, how lucky you are....to have these vids

Thank you Stu.....and the Perkin bros.

Notice that i have put lots of stringlines up (yellow arrow below).... and am laying 90mm high by 90mm wide blocks on the outside of the house walls, and 190mm high by 190mm wide blocks on the inside of the walls (there also must be a 50mm gap between the blocks)

.....(a 50mm cavity)...a 90mm block, then a 50mm gap, then a 190mm block.....that makes a 330mm wide wall) ......Australian sizes

now.......this is for the house only......not the terrace (as i mentioned before)......the terrace has the 190mm block only

However, remember,....... that we are talking 200mm per course (height)......190mm plus the joint 10mm = 200mm 

Thats going up .....200mm at a time...or 100mm at a time

Once your stringlines are up, then it should be multiples of 100mm (600mm or 700mm or 800mm and so on) from your stringline to the concrete (red arrow)...your finished blockwork at the top,should end up level with the stringlines

secondly

Hang your plumbob at the intersection of your lines (purple arrow) down to the concrete, and mark the concrete with a pencil as you see his finger pointing at

now , just watch this videos  below, to give you an idea what to do...learn from Izack and Scott