Scroll to the bottom of page first, and let the page load, (takes 4 or 5 seconds) then come to the top again
Now .......assuming we're continuing to build my particular house.....lets continue
Your footing has been dug out to match the configuration in Stage 3 ( EAST/WEST....NORTH/SOUTH MEASUREMENTS.... plans and measurements)........your steel cage has been placed in the trench (there will be a trench around the whole exterior of the house with a steal cage suspended aprox 100mm above the dirt floor and aprox 50mm lower than the top of the trench peg) with several step ups from the bottom of the property to the shallow north/west corner of the property and suspended above the trench, (so no hanging steel is touching any dirt) and you have your timber step-ups in place............and you are now ready to pour your concrete (footings)
Of course, the first thing you must do,.....is inform the engineer, and your builder, before you go any further.........inform them at least 24 hrs ahead, .....they will then be satisfied, or tell you if changes need to be made (as i mentioned earlier)
This is a great service from them, and be thankfull that you have some professionals that can save you a lot of stress further down the track.....make sure you take photos of everything...good or bad....bad, because you can show them the changes you may have had to make
Once again.......Tell and show the concrete company what you intend to do, .....they will need ...length of footing, width, and depth and they will work the volume of concrete out that you will need.......your engineer will tell you the strength of your concrete
By this stage, its advisable to make yourself a little metal road on to your property (as shown below),.......because you will have many vehicles on site, and if one gets stuck, due to inadequate roading, and they spend a half a day trying to get out, and it appears that you have not made an attempt to provide some sort of good roading.....they may charge you (like they did to me several years earlier), or end up having a dispute with them....you dont want that !
Pick a dry day if you can, our footing had no drainage so the trench would just fill with water, and thats not advisable
....do a double check of the footings, and then order the concrete truck
We poured all our concrete by hand .....just the 2 of us......we barrowed to the extreme parts of the property, that the truck could't get to,........ but the overall time period was not serious, as a concrete truck can wait on a job up to 2 hours before the concrete looses its strength ....it took us about an hour to pour
If you are using barrows like we did, and the trenches are quite deep,........cover the area where you are pouring with a large canvas sheet and drag it along with you as you pour (let it hang a little into the trench)......this way you will not get dirt from your trench walls falling into the wet concrete and also if you have large piece of flat timber to upend your barrow on, you will not collapse the trench wall
As i said earlier....The engineer will tell you the quality and strength your concrete will need to be.....ours was 20mpa with 80slump....you dont need to know what these things mean......just follow your instructions
The next day should see you ready to do some blockwork....
Put up the string lines where you intend laying your first blocks .......i would suggest some obscure area of the building to start........ (thats not so noticable)......a good place to practice
But before you do, see the video below and Stu will show you some tips and how to mix mortar properly........
He also mentioned stronger plasticiser, which i would recomend, as you only have to use a capfull (into the water at the beginning of the mix........one capfull).......... and dont just keep adding water, because it looks to dry, just let it mix a minute or 2 first, but on the other hand if there is shortage of water, you will find your mortar will turn into little round balls....and you dont want that....
Doing the foundation blocks below ground level is the best place to start........no one can see it...ha !......however, its not that critical, because the whole house is to be rendered
Watch vids .........man, how lucky you are....to have these vids
Thank you Stu.....and the Perkin bros.
Notice that i have put lots of stringlines up (yellow arrow below).... and am laying 90mm high by 90mm wide blocks on the outside of the house walls, and 190mm high by 190mm wide blocks on the inside of the walls (there also must be a 50mm gap between the blocks)
.....(a 50mm cavity)...a 90mm block, then a 50mm gap, then a 190mm block.....that makes a 330mm wide wall) ......Australian sizes
now.......this is for the house only......not the terrace (as i mentioned before)......the terrace has the 190mm block only
However, remember,....... that we are talking 200mm per course (height)......190mm plus the joint 10mm = 200mm
Thats going up .....200mm at a time...or 100mm at a time