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As i mentioned previously, the concrete company will work out the volume for you, and my suggestion is to get it early in the morning....gives you plenty of time
If your hiring a concrete gang....easy for them, but if you pour it yourself (like we did)....i had my labourer, bull floating the whole time.....i oversaw the pouring and spreading and screeding (and barrowing)......you may want to use a concrete pump and you'll probably find that a concrete gang will insist on it....i didnt use a concrete pump....maybe i should have!...but they are very heavy and easily get stuck, and costly
Unfortunately it was a 40 degree C day for us in Perth, but we still did ok, because pouring concrete on plastic tends to give you plenty of time as the water is not absorbed as fast
Going over and over with a bull float can tend to dry it out quicker but is great for bringing up the cream and leveling out low spots...use the bull float in alternative directions
Nice smooth edges are not essential, as blockwork and rendering will cover most of it around the outside walls
Super smooth finish is not essential either....just make sure its flat and level with no bumps....remember its all tiled
Have a good look at Eric's video first, (below) if your attempting to do the concrete yourself, although the helicopters they use for finishing, is not critical here on this job, nor the 'bump cutter' as we are using internal screed boxing
internal screed boxing (screed boards)
Now .....once the concrete has gone hard....
Before we go any further, our termite protection needs to take place......being my own house, i wanted 2 types of barriers, and so i used graniteguard (they just pour these tiny pebbles into all the gaps and wall cavities and around the pipes).....and i also used stainless matting across the cavities as well , .........but what you use,.... is up to you........you just need to do it...
Also, take photos.....inform your builder
Anyhow,.....We are now ready for the next stage......setting everything out...
Now, i gave you some measurements to help you get started.....and i hope you checked out the measurements on the plans as well, as you continue along this project.....remember ......if the plan reads 15.8cm by 14.8cm overall measurement of the house ....on the ruler....then that is 1 to 100 scale (though the measurements may not all be written down... just use ruler to get measurements ....scale 1 to100 on your ruler).......and remember that the plans are amended ( if your, or the plans measurements are indecisive, then formulate your own....as long as they dont conflict.....i altered many measurements as i went along, so often, you might have to reconsider your measurements, as long as they are consistant)...remember its your house, you can do what you want....as long as it complies.....and the downstairs and upstairs correspond and blend
The next thing that i do is chalkline (on the concrete floor) all the walls (both sides of each wall).....this helps if you have put a pipe or something in the wrong place ......and then you can make an adjustment....very same as when we designed this house......in the sand....at the beach
below are the plans that you will use to set out your internal walls (second plan down......amended plan)
and as i keep saying, show your joinery supplier, plans and photos of this house, a let them work out what windows you will need
But the best way for you to understand the complications of the blockwork, is to follow the drawings and photos (below) rather than me trying to explain it to you
Firstly, here are the original plans i worked off, (1st picture below)... sort of disregard them ...apart from the fact that the plan indicates the double and single story blockwork.....which will help you..........however, the amended plans, should be clearer to you.......and these are the amnended plans (the final plans) two below....
2nd plan below......amended plans.....the red lines are some of the doors.....french doors, wardrobe doors...all normal type doors
The blue lines are folding doors..........purple lines 'archway' (see video also)......green lines sliding doors.....brown line walk-thru space
The yellow lines, are short and angled door frames that will be shaped to suit (as you see in the photo...just copy the block course heights)
To find out their positioning (openings) .....the plan (assuming you have printed the plans out 1 to 100 .....thats15.8cm by 14.8cm house on your ruler .....as i have mentioned several times before)..... has narrow walls (one block wide).......or thicker walls (2 blocks wide)
Did you get that.......narrow walls on the plan three below are single block walls ( 90mm high x 190mm x 390mm)....and wide walls are double block walls (again.....90mm x 190mm x 390mm blocks...both inside and outside walls) with a 50mm cavity between them ......see third picture down
Remember double block walls, have regular wall ties between them
The measurements (1 to 100) should be accurate on the plans....but sometimes, if your unsure or wish to change something.....just use your creative juices (like i did).....and have a go at something different.....as long as you keep everything square, or at right angles....because you are tiling the floor........essential to keep measurements parralell and at right angles and matching upstairs
If you need to put in rods or extra vertical steel rods, drill into the concrete at an angle (with a hammer drill)......but do not drill right through....bang rods into concrete angled holes, and then straighten rods....that way, they will not pull out